3 – Leatherjackets and chafer grubs

Some of the links in this article go to Amazon or to our own shop. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. I only point you at products I would be happy to use myself.

These grubs can cause enormous damage to turf as they feed on the roots and young shoots of the grass plants. This alone can decimate managed turf, but even worse damage is caused by birds, and even badgers and foxes, tearing up the turf to feed on the grubs.

Leatherjackets are the grub of the cranefly (daddy long legs), of which there are many types that prefer different habitats. The only one we need to worry about is the species that prefers turf, and because of the recent mild Winters the population is expanding rapidly.

The Chafer grub is the grub of the Chafer beetle, and although not so widespread as the leatherjackets they can cause every bit as much damage.

Both grubs were traditionally controlled using insecticides, and for some years after those were withdrawn there was nothing approved at all, which caused the managed turf industry real problems. That has changed: Acelepryn now has full UK approval for leatherjackets and chafer grubs in managed turf. It goes on in late October to early November and must be applied by a certificated sprayer operator, so it is a job for a club or a lawn care contractor rather than something you buy.

Nematodes, natural predators in the soil, have moved on as well. Watered on in September to early October, while the soil is still above about twelve degrees, they are now a proven treatment for a garden lawn, provided the timing is right. The signs, the overnight test, the treatment windows and the repair are all in my article on leatherjackets in your lawn.

On small areas the grubs can be collected and removed by covering the area with wet sacking, or something similar, overnight. The grubs will come to the surface where they can be brushed up and got rid of. They make great bird feed!

On larger areas it is possible to bring them to the surface by aerating first, then soaking the ground with a heavy concentration of wetting agent, (household washing up liquid will do). This will bring the grubs to the surface as they can`t breath, where they can be removed by brushing or hand picking.

4 – Worm casts

Worms are very beneficial in the soil, aerating, recycling dead and dying plant material, and very much helping to create a healthy root zone.

Worm casts, however, can be a big problem in managed turf. The casts stick to the mowers, smearing and smothering the grass leafs, and also act as seed beds for the underlying bank of weed seeds.

Only ten per cent of worms actually cast, so by controlling the casting population very little damage is being done to the soil environment.

Good aeration is important, as worms cast more in compacted ground. Sandy top dressing is a big help, as worms do not like abrasive materials, but also the sand breaks up easier and does not smear when brushing the casts.

Worms do not like acidic conditions, so using acidic ingredients like iron and sulfur, get here, in the maintenance program is beneficial.

Above all though, it is important to brush the grass surface regularly to keep the surface clear of the casts. This can be necessary as often as twice per week on fine turf in the Autumn and Winter.

5 – Moss

Moss loves damp and cool conditions so Autumn and Winter are ideal for moss invasion. The grass is growing very slowly, so less competition, and there is plenty of moisture. It is very important to keep on top of the moss through this time of year, as if left to its own devices it will be very strong and difficult to remove come the Spring.

Please read my recent article regarding moss control to keep on top of the problem. Moss killer here.

6 –  Allowing too much grass growth

You may think this is not really a problem, particularly in the Northern European climate, but allowing grass to grow too long does as much harm as cutting too short. Increased disease incidence and moss invasion are just two of the problems.

A healthy turf needs to be kept as dry as possible, so long grass makes this very difficult. As a general rule on any managed turf, I would always advise never allowing the grass to get longer than twice the height that it will be cut in the Summer months.

The old adage of “the last cut”, is not something I would advocate. Keep things trimmed during any suitable weather to help produce a healthy year round turf.

7 – Weeds

Although we can`t use chemicals to kill weeds in the cooler months, as the weeds need to be growing strongly for the active ingredients to work. Check out weed killer here, there are still things we can do to keep them under control.

Take a close look at the turf surface at least once per month and use a weed fork to remove any rosette weeds such as daisy, dandelion, or plantains. Get one here. For spreading weeds such as clover or speedwell, it is worth carrying a knife to give them a few slashes to limit the spread.

As mentioned above, keep worm casts under control to limit the opportunity for the weeds to germinate.

8 – Yellowing 0f the grass leafs.

If there is any sign of leaf yellowing it`s certain there are problems with the turf. It Can be lack of aeration leading to compaction and waterlogging, it can be serious leatherjacket invasion, it can be lack of adequate nutrition, or a combination of any of these factors.

It really is a sign that the maintenance is not what is required to produce a healthy turf. There is plenty of information on this web site to allow anyone to produce a good looking lawn, with a little effort!

The one winter rule for every lawn: keep off the white frost

Stay off your lawn while there is a white frost on it. Frozen grass blades snap under your feet, and a few days later every footprint shows up as a brown print that can last into the spring. Once the white has lifted and the frost is out of the surface, you can walk on it, mow it or work on it again. Keep off it when it is waterlogged too: that is how compaction starts.

Your winter lawn checklist

Once a week, or whenever you are out in the garden, from now until the end of February:

• Leaves. Rake or blow them off. Left lying, they block the light and hold the damp against the grass, which is exactly what disease wants.
• Worm casts. Brush them off when they are dry, and always before you mow, or the mower smears them flat into a bare patch.
• Birds pulling at the turf. Starlings, rooks and crows digging in your lawn usually means leatherjackets underneath. Note where, repair the damage with a little dressing and seed, and plan the treatment for next autumn: the timing is in my leatherjackets article.
• Disease. Fusarium shows as small orange-brown patches, often with a white or pink edge on a damp morning. Deal with it the week you see it, not the month after.
• Mowing. Trim in any mild, dry spell, never taking more than a third of the leaf off, so the grass never gets longer than twice its summer height.
• The mower. A blunt blade tears the grass instead of cutting it, and torn grass in cold, wet weather is an open door for disease. Get yours sharpened and serviced now, before the spring rush.

If you would like a plan for your own lawn rather than a general list, I offer a personalised online lawn care service, and lawn care in person around Dumfries.